Jul 02 2009
Install Wall-to-Wall Carpeting -3
When all the fastener strips have been nailed into place, take the rolled-up carpeting and pull it into position in the room and unroll it, right over the bare floor. This is so you won’t jerk the padding out of place later by pulling the carpeting across it. Roll the carpet¬ing back from one side toward the cen¬ter of the room, exposing the floor again.
Unroll a strip of foam padding along the edge of the floor across the bare side of the room from wall to wall, waffle-patterned side up. Cut the strip carefully with heavy scissors, leaving about 2 inches overlapping the fastening strips at each end. Pull the strip to position it over the bare end of the floor so that it overlaps the fastening strips on both ends and along the wall. Then staple it into place, using a staple gun to set staples diagonally every 6 inches or so along all four edges of the padding. Cover the rest of the room the same way, rolling the carpeting back so you can roll the padding into place. Butt the edges of the strips of padding and staple every 6 inches along every edge. Trim the padding as necessary to fit around obstacles, cutting as closely as possible around them.
On concrete floors, use carpet padding adhesive to anchor the foam pad¬ding. Position the padding as above and roll it back from one side, then spread adhesive on the exposed floor as directed, using a paintbrush or a fine-toothed notched trowel. Roll the padding out onto the adhesive, press¬ing and smoothing it into place. To complete the gluing, roll the padding back from the other wall, apply the adhesive, and unroll the padding. Repeat, butting the strips of padding, until the entire floor is padded. Fill in under radiators with small pieces of padding.