Unroll a strip of foam padding along the edge of the floor across the bare side of the room from wall to wall, waffle-patterned side up. Cut the strip carefully with heavy scissors, leaving about 2 inches overlapping the fastening strips at each end. Pull the strip to position it over the bare end of the floor so that it overlaps the fastening strips on both ends and along the wall. Then staple it into place, using a staple gun to set staples diagonally every 6 inches or so along all four edges of the padding. Cover the rest of the room the same way, rolling the carpeting back so you can roll the padding into place. Butt the edges of the strips of padding and staple every 6 inches along every edge. Trim the padding as necessary to fit around obstacles, cutting as closely as possible around them.

On concrete floors, use carpet padding adhesive to anchor the foam pad¬ding. Position the padding as above and roll it back from one side, then spread adhesive on the exposed floor as directed, using a paintbrush or a fine-toothed notched trowel. Roll the padding out onto the adhesive, press¬ing and smoothing it into place. To complete the gluing, roll the padding back from the other wall, apply the adhesive, and unroll the padding. Repeat, butting the strips of padding, until the entire floor is padded. Fill in under radiators with small pieces of padding.

Tools: measuring rule, hammer, nail set, screwdriver, putty knife, vacuum cleaner, work gloves, tack hammer, ¼ -inch-thick piece of scrap wood, small handsaw, heavy scissors, staple gun, paintbrush or fine-toothed notched trowel, utility knife with sharp heavy-duty blades; knee kicker, available on rental from most carpet dealers; block of scrap wood, plane.

Materials: graph paper, flooring nails, wood putty, tack-less carpet fastening strips, metal door edging strip for each doorway in room, latex or vinyl foam carpet padding, foam padding adhesive, heavy-duty staples, precut and preseamed carpeting. Time: 1 to 2 days, depending on preparation necessary.

Probably the most difficult part of installing carpeting is calculating exactly what to buy and how to place it. Car¬peting is sold in 9-foot, 12-foot, and 15-foot widths; padding is sold in standard 4 ½ -foot rolls. Before you buy, measure the room to be carpeted and draw a floor plan on graph paper make sure your measurements are exact. Mark the exact position and width of all doors, windows, fireplaces, radiators, and other wall interruptions, and include the full depth of door frames. Take this floor plan with you to the carpet dealer.

Plan the layout of the carpeting and the padding carefully with the dealer to take advantage of the full width of the carpeting and to minimize seaming in heavy-traffic areas. Calculate the square yardage to be carpeted-length times width, divided by 9-and take the dealer’s advice on the lengths of carpeting and padding you’ll need.

It is possible to cut and seam the carpeting yourself, but this can be tricky. In a small room, no wider than the carpet roll, you won’t have to make seams; otherwise, have the carpet dealer cut and seam the carpeting to fit the room.
The dealer should also determine the amount and type of tackless strip fastener you need. The fastener comes in 4-foot strips.

The type depends on the thickness of your carpet and the floor you’re covering; the strips have preset edge tacks and preset nails for installation over wood or concrete. Be sure to buy the right kind, and buy a strip or two extra to allow for mistakes. Have metal door edging strips cut to the exact measure of your doors.

Finally, rent a knee kicker from the carpet dealer. The kicker is used to stretch the edges of the carpet onto the fastening strips.

to be continue to: Install carpeting

Would you like to finish the decoration and a new site or improve comfort, which is not a new room, you should choose the most suitable carpets, as they affect the atmosphere and character of the room. Thus, when deciding on your choice of colors and the atmosphere and measure the size of the room the size of the space needed for recovery. Then, taking into account the costs and a variety of rugs can be purchased at the event, which corresponds to the camera.

In fact, this proposal allows the interior to begin the selection of blankets with the most appropriate for the port. The idea is that you are naturally more attention, because the carpet is the first impression all back home. That decision, ultimately, you can easily choose the carpet and elsewhere.

All of these factors that contribute to the beauty floor of the house. Generally, people prefer a hard wooden floor and wooden floors are durable and beautiful. Wood floors are advantages for patients who suffer from allergies because it can be easily cleaned, so they are free to pollen or other substances that cause allergies. Floors that once there is often need to be replaced. It is also very easy to clean hardwood floors. Just wipe the floor damp cloth and clean the house. Compared with blankets, which accumulates in certain substances, and it is easier to clean.

There are many options for wooden flooring, such as cherry, birch, oak, pine, etc. Another advantage is that wood floors are tailored to each device or traditional or modern. Wood floors are very favorable, if the floor is made of wood and proper care trapped between them for life.

Nothing to retain heat in the room, like a tree. There are hundreds of colors and styles and wood floors available to customers. Earlier, wood floors had not been informed of the bathroom and basement areas, who fear that the tree may be damaged moisture. Today, however, acrylic and wood stoves are available and have been involved in natural wood floors in the bathrooms and kitchens. This comprehensive collection and transportation sectors of projects on a daily basis, sometimes wet, the floors cleaned and sorted.